This summer, I wanted to explore a little further afield than my normal stomping ground of North Zealand. To continue to familiarize myself with more of the country I have fallen in love with, and to experience as much of it as I can. I did not want to fall into the self-labelled stereotype of ‘Incomer loves Denmark but has never really spent much time outside of Copenhagen or its suburbs,’ although to be fair, visiting members of the Danes’ family on Falster must also surely count?
I have long wished to be able to explore more remote parts of Jutland, experience the authenticity of more rural areas, off the tourist trail, and away from the crowds. The Dane was keen to oblige and appointed himself ‘tour operator.’ I was asked for a wishlist of places I wanted to go, and all I could come up with was “I want to go to the place where they still pull the fishing boats up on the beach and I would like to see where the seas meet at Skagen!” Honestly, I didn’t really have much concept of distance or how easy it would be to plan a route, and had not really researched more than that.
He more than met the brief. We toured by car, from Horsholm, north of Copenhagen, over 4 days and 3 nights, and it was simply magical. I can honestly say it felt like I was living in a fairytale parallel universe. I switched off, relaxed, and lived in a daze, soaking it all up. We saw so much more than I can cover in this column, so I have tried to pick out some highlights that I hope might inspire you to plan a future trip if you have not yet been. If you are already familiar with North Jutland, there may be somewhere to add to your list.
The first day we covered a lot of ground, including Himmelbjerget, one of Denmark’s highest naturally occurring points, and in Nordic mythology, the highest mountain in Asgaard, the world of the gods. From there, via Klitmøller, or Cold Hawai, with the added surprise declared of an impromptu visit to ‘the most romantic spot in Jutland’ according to The Dane (he was joking!), which turned out to be perhaps not the most romantic place, but definitely a mind-blowing place (no pun intended) at the National test centre for wind turbines . Even if you think wind turbines are not your thing, it really is incredible to witness the sheer size of some of these giants from Vesta, Siemens, and others, with the wingspan circumference in motion covering the size of 3 full-size football fields. Definitely recommended. You can walk around undisturbed; it is eerily peaceful other than the quiet whirring of the wind turbines, and there is also a small visitor centre with lots of facts and information.
From there, it was time to head to Thorup Strand, and it was perfectly timed as all the fishing boats had returned from the day at sea and had been pulled up onto the beach. It was everything I could have imagined and more. The colours, the lighting, the unspoilt beauty, and somewhere you should experience at least once. We were also extremely lucky to be able to visit a summer pop-up restaurant from the Krabbesostre, serving fresh crab claws and prawns. Another exceptional experience, keep a lookout for them next year.
Finally, it was time to head to our hotel for the night, the fabulous Hotel Nor in Fjerritslev, a short drive from Thorup Strand.
Hotel Nor is simply perfect. Set elevated in extensive grounds with unbroken views towards Slettestrand and only 900m from the beach, this hotel boasts a stunning kitchen garden and prides itself on using local and homegrown produce. In the kitchen garden, we found everything from multiple varieties of tomatoes, herbs, flowers, asparagus, berries, corn, and fish hanging up to dry. The rooms are spacious and comfortable, and all recently refurbished. The atmosphere is warm, cozy, and relaxing. I really cannot recommend it highly enough–and we have zero affiliation here–I just believe in giving credit where credit is due. It was blissful.
Day 2 was time to explore the local area around Slettestrand. We took a morning run down to the beach and a dip in the sea. Bonus was there were more fishing boats on the beach. Less of a bonus was the uphill run back to the hotel–at one point we even passed by an extremely old man on a pushbike who was barely cycling faster than we were ‘running’ but still managed to leave us behind.
After breakfast at the hotel and a morning exploring the grounds, it was time for my next surprise: lunch at Svinkløv Badehotel.
Svinkløv Badehotel is a historic Danish coastal hotel, hidden away behind the dunes where it has stood since 1925. The original hotel was destroyed by fire in 2015, but it has been rebuilt by its current owners staying true to its original style in every way. It is impossible to book a room at the hotel. There is a long waiting list, and if you do manage to succeed, you will be offered first refusal on the same room on the same date the following year. Svinkløv prides itself on complete tranquillity and relaxation. There is no Wi-Fi in the hotel, limited mobile phone reception, and no televisions, to ensure that guests switch off. The interior is based on a traditional Danish summerhouse design, and is understated and high-end, maximizing the natural light with huge windows out to the sea, and drawing inspiration from the coastal colors of the landscape outside. You will find whitewashed wooden floors, pristine white linen table covers, chairs designed by Fritz Hansen, and table lamps from Le Klint. The food is exquisite in both taste and presentation. You immediately know what to expect when you walk past the patisserie counter as you enter the dining room, where the handmade patisserie works of art look too perfect to eat!
After lunch, it was time for a walk around Fosdalen, an unusual and geographically interesting naturally elevated plateau, created by rainwater erosion. The area is rich in natural history and springs.
We headed back to Thorup strand in the evening, and a visit to Thorup Strand Fiskehus. Having lived in Scotland for over 50 years, it is fair to say I have eaten my fair share of fish and chips, but without a doubt the fish and chips at the fiskehus is the best I have ever eaten. The cod served is the daily catch from the fishing boats on the beach. It’s food heaven in its simplest form, every mouthful just sending you into flavor paradise.
After a second night at Hotel Nor, and another early morning downhill then uphill return run to the beach, we headed off for Day 3.
Day 3 agenda was to drive to Skagen. We chose a route which took us along the coast from Blokhus to Lokken, and included long stretches where you can actually drive along the huge wide beaches, so much so that there are road signs at each exit point from the beach, to let you know when you have arrived at various towns along the way. Not for the faint-hearted or uninitiated, however, with the right local knowledge it’s worth doing, as such a surreal experience–the sand is so compacted it almost feels like a bizarre and deserted desert motorway.
From Blokhus, all along the coast, you will find the remains of numerous German artillery bunkers which the occupying German forces built as part of the ‘Atlantic wall’ during the Second World War. Many of these are well preserved, and those on the beach can be accessed easily. It is quite amazing to stand inside one, looking out to sea. Very different on a voluntary trip on a hot sunny summer’s day, it is quite impossible to imagine what it must have been like during a cold and hostile winter back in the early 1940s, whether you were on the German or Allied side.
There are many areas of interest on the route to Skagen which are worth visiting: Råbjerg Mile, Demark’s largest sand dune, also a migrating dune, which is 1km long and 1km wide, Den Tilsandede Kirke, or the sand buried church, and Rubjerg Knude Lighthouse, built in 1900 and moved 70 meters inland in 2019 on hydraulic jacks in a single day, to save it from being lost due to sea erosion from the North Sea. Check out enjoynordjylland.com for plenty of details and helpful information to plan your visit to any of these landmarks.
Finally, we arrived in Skagen. If you have never visited, nothing can prepare you for the colours and the light, equally beautiful at any time of the year and in any weather, but we were fortunate that it was a hot and sunny July day. Everyone knows Skagen for being the point where the two seas meet. That is at Grenem, a few kilometers North of the town of Skagen, but first it was time to explore Skagen. During July and August, it feels like most of Northern Europe has also decided to visit Skagen, it’s extremely popular and it can be difficult to find available accommodation, so you need to prepare in advance for hotels and restaurants. There is something for everyone.
Once again, we were incredibly lucky to be there on a date when there was a traditional Danish ‘Aftensang’ or evening song gathering taking place at the old wooden lighthouse. This was a community event where everyone was welcome, locals and tourists, to join for a hyggeligt hour singing traditional Danish songs just before sunset. Over 1,300 people had turned out, and we were each handed a program and songbook, so an excellent opportunity to practice singing in Danish! It was quite amazing.
The next morning, we decided to try to beat the crowds who would be heading to Grenen, and an early start paid off. We arrived at Grenen at 6:15 am and made the short walk along the beach to the tip, passing only two other people on the way. We were rewarded with having the tip to ourselves, and some unforgettable photo moments at the point where the two seas (Skagerak and Kattegat) meet. If you are planning a trip, it is well worth a dawn start. The walk from the car park area is easy and takes about 10 minutes, so no need to wait for the tourist trailer and crowds later in the day.
What a way to finish my first visit to Jylland. All that was left was a drive down to Aarhus to the ferry, past plenty of the kartoffel marker (potato fields) for which Jylland is famous.
If you have not yet visited Nord Jylland, I can highly recommend it, and hope that this column might have given you some ideas to start planning your trip.
God fornøjelse!
