The Danish Railroad Company DSB (Danske Statsbaner) is the largest train operating company in Scandinavia, transporting more than 195 million passengers each year. This year marks 140 years since the founding of DSB in 1885. To honor this occasion, Last Week in Denmark will be publishing a monthly column called “Jeg Tog To Tog” (“I took two trains”). Each episode will highlight the basic history, quirky charm, and hidden treasures of some of Denmark’s small towns, which can be reached by traveling with DSB.
I must give credit to my five-year-old son, whose passionate interest in trains has inspired my family to explore Denmark via its phenomenal railway system. At the age of three, he would implore us to take him on “two buses and a train.” We would then take a bus to Vejle, and literally get on the first train that arrived. He would gaze out the window with wonder and delight, until he stated his decision that we should “get off here.” As a result of these spontaneous adventures, my family has visited more Danish towns in our five years of living here than most of my native friends claim in their lifetime. I am here to share some of our discoveries, in hopes that you, too, may be inspired to explore Denmark via its phenomenal railway system.
The criteria for towns highlighted in this column are as follows:
- Must have a train station
- Can be reached using a maximum of two trains
- Explorable by foot
- Contains memorable / unique attractions
Third Stop:
Horsens
Latitude: 55° 51′ 38.38″ N
Longitude: 9° 51′ 1.22″ E
Population: 65,688
I chose Horsens as this month’s destination because that is where you will find Northern Europe’s Largest Festival of Crime Fiction, the weekend of March 29th and 30th. Like all crime fiction, this article has two sides. You may encounter either one of these scenarios if you choose to visit Horsens.
Timing is everything.
If you take a five-year-old to Horsens, for example, on a cold and rainy Saturday in February, and you arrive close to 16:00 in the afternoon, you may find Horsens to be a little dismal. Your experience may be tainted by the alarming reminder that Horsens – like most of Denmark – doesn’t have a lot to offer families in this type of situation. It might feel like EVERYTHING is closed, including the toy store, ice cream shop, and museum. You may hear a repetitive, resistant voice in your head, convincing you that:
- you don’t want to walk everywhere,
- you want someone to carry you,
- it always rains,
- this place is boring, and
- you want to go home.
Every story has two sides, and timing is everything.
On the other hand, if you have any experience learning from your mistakes, you might decide to visit Horsens a second time, a few weeks later, on a sunny Saturday, arriving in the morning. The cobblestone streets will feel more inviting, the charming shops more welcoming and… open, and you will probably notice more of the city’s charm.
My family’s favorite place in Horsens is Industrimuseet. This interactive museum highlights Denmark’s industrial history, featuring daily demonstrations of vintage machinery and engaging exhibits on daily life in the 19th and 20th centuries. They have a great playground, and it is a short bus ride from the city center.
On a sunny day, with enough time to stroll, you will discover why Horsens was ranked by Dansk Industri as the best business-friendly municipality in 2017 and 2020. It might be one of the few places in Denmark where you can find authentic Iraqi cuisine, at the newly opened Mezza Iraqi Street Kitchen. Or choose from one of several cozy outposts in the Gran Universe of bars and cafes, succumbing to the romantic allure of Vores Lille Vinbar. As you stroll through an otherwise typical Danish pedestrian labyrinth, you will encounter magnificent street art, which has been commissioned by the kommune. You can even download a printable map and extend your stay; the street art never closes.
Perhaps Horsens is the host of the Crime Fiction festival because the city itself contains fascinating dualities. It has a rich Viking history, and is also a hub for modern arts and culture. Its most popular destination is Fængslet, which operated as a prison for 150 years. It now serves as a hotel, museum, and concert venue. The Museum of Industry overlooks a beautiful harbor, with opportunities for kayaking and sailing in the summer month.
Even the train station’s 7-Eleven abides by this quirky town’s eclecticness. You can purchase premade gift baskets, featuring locally sourced Danish fare, or create your own: Specially priced sale items included fresh-baked Chokoladeboller (four for 25-), Faxe Kondi Booster drinks (2 stk. / 40-), and healthy, hearty salads for only 35 DKK. Choose between “Peace to Pesto Chicken” or “The Caesar Pleaser,” depending on which type of Horsens day you experienced.
DSB trains stopping in Horsens originate from Copenhagen (2 hours, 17 minutes), Esbjerg (1 hour, 36 minutes), Fredericia (38 minutes), and Aarhus (31 minutes).
Next Stop: Odense, in honor of my son’s upcoming birthday.
