Before we moved to Denmark, and before we became parents, my wife and I co-founded a children’s summer adventure program in New York City, called Jr. Explorers Club. We ran the program for ten years: five days a week, for five weeks each summer. The premise was “every day is a field trip,” and one of our slogans was “expect the unexpected and it will happen.”
We led groups of children – ranging in age from six to sixteen – on daily adventures throughout the city, using the MTA system of buses, subways, and commuter trains. We became masters at navigating public transportation, and experts of New York City geography. Our longtime New Yorker friends came to us for local recommendations, and we were known within our social circle as the premier specialists in urban adventure.
We moved to Denmark in 2019, and brought with us our newborn son, and our wanderlust. Our first summer in our new country was 2020; COVID ensured that we would have no choice but to stay national and practice our shared interest in exploration. As our son has grown and developed into a passionate traveler and passenger, we are overjoyed to share the hobby as a family of three. We now find our native Danish friends turning to us for local recommendations, expressing surprise and awe at how much land we have managed to cover in just over five years of expat living.
From 2022-2024, DSB offered an incredible deal: The sommer rejsepas, which granted you eight days of unlimited travel by bus, train, or metro, for only 399 kroner. I had hoped to frame this month’s column as “Eight places to check out this summer using your 8-day rejsepas.” Unfortunately, I discovered, there will be no rejsepas this summer; it was contracted as a three year offer. I’m still going to suggest eight places to check out this summer. These are places that my family has discovered over the course of our first five years that felt uniquely special to us when we visited. Hopefully at least one of them will be new to you.
- Verdenskortet (Klejtrup Lake, Søren Poulsens Vej 5, 9500 Hobro)
This unique attraction is a giant map of the world crafted over 25 years using stones and other natural materials, covering a beautiful lake in northern Jylland. It is designed to be interactive, with flags and scavenger hunts for children, as well as a café and playground. Hobro has a small train station, and from there you can take a 20 minute bus ride directly to the venue.
2. Løkken
We discovered this northern Jylland gem while trying to avoid the summer crowds of its notoriously popular neighbor, Skagen. Locally, this town is known for renting prestigious tiny badehusene along the beautiful sandy beaches of Løkken Strand, also called “den hvide by” – “the white city.” They attract an enthusiastic surfing culture, and you can find a charming sweet shop called Bolcheriet, specializing in handcrafted hard candy since 2001. A direct bus from Aalborg can take you to Løkken in just over an hour.
3. Thyborøn
There are several rugged fishing towns sprinkled across the coasts of Denmark, and this is one of the first we discovered. They have an aquarium with an exhibit of ice sculptures, a museum dedicated to Danish naval war history, and even a small optical-illusion-centric science museum. You can find fresh seafood at a few local restaurants, including Mallemukken, where you can dine underneath two massive inverted boats. The real highlight, however, is the extraordinary and magical Sneglehuset. A Danish fisherman spent 25 years building this unique house for his wife, meticulously decorating it with seashells surrounding the entire property. It is breathtaking to see; an epic labor of love and gesture capturing the level of romanticism I aspire to in my own marriage. Getting to Thyborøn is difficult without a car, but it is possible. It is one of a few towns which are connected via the Midttrafik transportation system. Tickets and information can be found on the Rejsebillet app, which also services DSB and Sydtrafik.
4. Fanø
We were amazed when we learned that Denmark includes around 400 different islands, vastly ranging in size and population. We have explored a few over the years, and our personal favorite is Fanø. This idyllic island is fascinating to explore because although it is relatively small in size (you can easily cycle the perimeter in an afternoon), it is divided into neighborhoods that somehow feel distinct from one another. Nordby has a public library, art galleries, cozy cafés, and quirky shops, while Sønderho will truly make you feel transported to another time. Fanø Bryghus produces a wide variety of excellent craft beers, and Værftet doubles as a funky nautical themed cocktail lounge and modern chic boutique. You can reach Fanø by taking a short ferry ride from Esbjerg (featured in the April issue of Jeg Tog To Tog).
5. Svendborg
According to its tourism homepage, Svendborg was voted “Denmark’s finest shopping city.” It’s not clear where this accolade comes from, so we’ll just have to take their word for it. I can tell you from first hand experience, however: this city has a lot of culture and charm. We enjoyed hanging out at Kammerarteriet, a vibrant performance venue on the harbor that also has a few bars and restaurants. When we discovered Svendborg, it reminded us of some of the hipster neighborhoods in our beloved former hometown, Brooklyn. Summer is a great time to visit Svendborg, as it hosts a number of unique festivals and events: an Arts and Crafts Festival, a massive Culinary Food Market, and even an International Organ Festival. Svendborg station can be reached directly from Odense in 45 minutes.
6. Møns Klint
We traveled by car to visit these stunning white chalk cliffs, on the island of Møn, southeast of Sjælland. It is one of the most spectacular views in the country, and I highly recommend adding it to your Danish bucket list. The majestic white limestone was formed by fossils of tiny microscopic algae from 70 million years ago.
Getting to Møns Klint by public transportation is difficult and time consuming, but it is possible. You can take the train from Copenhagen to Vordingborg, then a bus to the town of Stege, where we stayed. Another local bus gets off right outside the cliffs.
This is a popular destination, so I won’t say much about it, other than this: If you haven’t been to Louisiana, you are missing out! It is one of the best museums in the world. The permanent collection is excellent, and the museum does a great job of curating and rotating new exhibitions from both local and international artists. The location is breathtaking, with an outdoor sculpture park planted into roaring green hills, overlooking a postcard-worthy ocean vista. The Humlebæk Station is a 40 minute train ride from Copenhagen. Make sure you save time to eat at La Strada Restaurante, where you will enjoy one of the most delicious Italian meals in Denmark.
8. Skovtårnet
It is only fitting to end this list with a place called “Camp Adventure.” The highlight is a 45 meter Forest Tower, which spirals you up above the trees for a mesmerizing walking experience, rewarding you with a magnificent view of nature. The surrounding area includes a food hall with bars and restaurants, a climbing park, and campgrounds to extend your stay. This is where we discovered snobrød, and began developing our love of the Danish bonfire tradition.
Last night, we enjoyed our first bonfire of the season together with some Danish-American friends. We shared our upcoming summer plans, which include revisiting a few favorite weekend adventures, and trying some new ones, as well. Whatever you have planned for your sommerferie, we hope you will discover something unexpected, and share what you learn. This is a small country, but it is full of wonder and beauty, if you know where to find it. As the Jr. Explorers Club (and Jules Verne) would say: “Look with all your eyes, look.”
Hav en god sommer 🙂
