My family moved to Denmark from New York City, and we have always loved Copenhagen. We consider it the New York City of Denmark, if one dares to make such a comparison. Speaking as someone who adores each of those cities, it is meant as the highest compliment, both to CPH and NYC.
For this month’s column, I am going on the record to claim that Esbjerg is the Los Angeles of Denmark. I will encourage you to spend some time there the next time you are craving a laid back west coast seaside town with #summervibes.
There is an obvious geographic similarity, with Esbjerg sitting on the coast of Denmark directly opposite from Copenhagen, much like how L.A. and New York anchor opposite sides of the United States. The difference being a span of 260 km of Danish land, compared to 2,400 American miles.
Los Angeles became part of the U.S. in 1848 as a result of the Mexican-American War. Similarly, Esbjerg was established as a port city after Denmark lost Schleswig and Holstein to Prussia in 1864, cutting off its access to key ports. The Danish government needed a new harbor on the west coast, and Esbjerg was the chosen location. Both cities experienced rapid economic growth in the 19th and 20th centuries because of oil discoveries and the offshore energy industry. And today, both cities are most recognized by an iconic, massive white landmark that serves as a symbol of their identity.
Just as Los Angeles is greater than the Hollywood sign, Esbjerg has much more to offer beyond The Man Meets the Sea. At the maritime museum, Fiskeri- og Søfartsmuseet, visitors can engage in an in-depth account of Denmark’s fishing heritage, climb aboard shipping vessels, and watch live seal feedings. The Esbjerg Art Museum has a unique approach to visitor interaction, offering permanent and rotating exhibitions that invite touch, sound, and smell into the user experience. At the harbor, you can take a short ferry boat across the Wadden Sea to the idyllic island of Fanø (which – spoiler alert – will be the subject of a future issue of this column).
Unlike Los Angeles, you do not need a car to explore the charms of Esbjerg. DSB can transport you on a high-speed transnational train ride directly from Copenhagen in less than three hours. It’s about two hours from Aarhus, an hour and a half from either Odense or Vejle, and 40 minutes from Kolding. My town does not have a train, but it does offer an express bus, going direct to Esbjerg a few times a day in just over an hour.
The Esbjerg train station is an architectural marvel. It opened in 1874, only six years after the city was founded. The station was designed by Heinrich Weich, who is also responsible for Copenhagen Central Station. The aesthetic is modern Romantic, with large arched windows, a stunning neoclassical chandelier, and ornate ceiling decor. There are storage lockers, and spacious waiting areas. The Seven Eleven sells everything from greeting cards to playing cards, and the daily special was two jumbo kanelsnegle, which could be shared together on a two-seat table top facing the platform and tracks.
My wife and I, however, prefer the pastries at Kaffesmeden. It is one of the coziest cafés we have found in all of Denmark, and it is easily walkable from the Esbjerg station. Around the corner, you can shop for beautiful and practical ceramic artwork, or make your own, at the impeccably designed Galleri Værnhøj, which doubles as an open Ceramic Studio for DIY drop-ins. Internationals might find treasures from their homeland at an unassuming niche import boutique called Honning-krukken. The city provides comfort for the soul, without the traffic and pretension of its American counterpart.
Esbjerg may not have a giant landmark announcing its name, but it speaks for itself with a unique magic and charm. Instead of palm trees you’ll see wind turbines, and instead of movie sets you’ll see fishing boats. You won’t find stars on the sidewalk, but you will find warmth in your heart. There’s a reason why the four giant men that greet you are so calm and peaceful, and why they haven’t left their seaside post for thirty years.
