Fueled by social media, Denmark has emerged as the capital for fashion. As a newly minted global fashion leader, Denmark has gained attention for its relaxed and effortless styling as well as its focus on sustainability.
All this focus must make one wonder how the world of fashion can fit in with a focus on the wider Danish society on sustainability. Because in Denmark, we do not do anything half-heartedly!
Denmark, as per usual, is looking to set a standard for sustainability in fashion by balancing commercial success with environmental responsibility. It wants to demonstrate that fashion can be both profitable and planet-friendly – from Copenhagen Fashion Week to impact-conscious brands.
The Danish Approach to Fashion Week:
In 2020, the Copenhagen Fashion Council, which rings in the Fashion Week every season, rolled out a sustainability mandate for the first time. It was the tinder to the fire of preservation in fashion on a large scale. As recently as January 2025, the Fashion Council tightened its sustainability requirements, making them mandatory for brands that wanted to be a part of the official program. The sustainability requirements for 2025 included:
- Companies must have an ECG strategy.
- Collections should be made of a minimum 60% recycled, deadstock, or certified materials.
- The collections should be designed for longevity, repairability, and durability.
- Companies must adhere to ethical labour practices.
- Shows must be plastic and waste-free.
This forward-thinking Council has made Denmark consistently stand out as a leader in fashion sustainability. Its commitment has extended to the larger fashion ecosystem, enough for the British Fashion Council to follow in the footsteps of CPHFW. Denmark is already recognised for its profound sustainability efforts, but its support for sustainable fashion is its cultural commitment to systemic change with the intent of environmental and social stewardship.
But, where is the paradox?
Copenhagen Fashion Week has pioneered mandatory sustainability requirements, but has come under scrutiny for the same compliance since 2024. Perhaps this mandatory requirement came about because of the strong criticism received last year. In early 2025, 7 fashion brands and the Copenhagen Fashion Week (CPHFW) came under scrutiny of the Danish Consumer Ombudsman for alleged greenwashing. An advisory firm, Continual, and the NGO Consumer Council – Forbrugerrådet Tænk have alleged that these brands have misled their consumers by exaggerating their sustainability efforts. They state that the claims are inaccurate or irrelevant. Additionally, these brands are sharing information that does not fully comply with the actual effects of the products on the environment.
The Paradox that is beyond Greenwashing:
Take yourself back to the time when you truly felt like you ‘experienced’ fashion. It likely shook you or made you feel insufficient. Long gone are the days when the ‘French-ness’ of fashion was a continuing problem. Copenhagen has joined the ranks and, as usual, is leading from the front! If you follow the news in Danish at all or slip under the spell of Danish news on social media, you may have seen the embarrassing way in which Cecilie Thorsmark, Copenhagen Fashion Week director, was followed by a journalist from Radio4, and was forced to react spontaneously to the growing or shall I say slimming models on the ‘garden (ramp) walk’ of CPHFW. Little did it surprise me that some went on to call it ‘Wegovy Week’.
There have also been news reports on how clothing brands (such as Zara) make ever smaller sizes, including many Danish ones. It should come as no surprise, dear reader, that women, especially, do not find sizes in physical or digital stores. In fact, a recent news report by TV2 quotes Associate Professor Mette Terkildsen from Via University College, who has spent years researching the overlap between women’s body shapes and the fashion industry’s clothing sizes and offerings. She says that the trend in diversity at major fashion brands is going backwards.
This harsh criticism, if you ask me, is well deserved and is especially noticeable when Copenhagen has been pioneering shows with body positivity at its centre. Think Ganni AW23 Butterfly show
Copenhagen has also pioneered showcases that are off-beat – bikes on the ramp, a messy diner guest, the first blind model to walk the ramp, the list can go on. (insert Canva image).
A steep mountain to climb:
Copenhagen has set one of the most ambitious goals possible in the fashion business and industry. It created a space by being forward-thinking and a first mover in diversity, inclusion, and sustainability. It has not lost its sheen, but growing criticisms of what it is actually achieving mean that to some, there is a slow chipping away at its credibility.
In Denmark, we love to be held to a higher standard – we thrive on it. Keep Jatelov aside for a sec! We made strict rules to adhere to for all brands – big and small. H&M and Gaani, though known as ‘Scandi brands’, showed that fashion and its affordability can go hand in hand. We also ‘taught’ the world affordable luxury. But these very brands came under huge criticism for their pseudo-sustainability. Think the IKEA of fashion.
The Role of Trade Shows and Industry Platforms:
CIFF (Copenhagen International Fashion Fair) is one of the trade shows after Pitti (Italy) that brings many buyers and fashion companies under one roof. Their idea is simple – to create space for all fashion brands, preferably, sustainable. Industry events such as CIFF also create a platform for conversation and collaboration. They put the due focus on sustainability and carry the burden of business success.
Similarly, Global Fashion Summit (GFA) 2025 is a 15-year-old non-profit organisation that fosters industry collaboration on sustainability in fashion to accelerate impact. This year, it explored the theme, ‘Barriers and Bridges’, highlighting key obstacles and collaborative solutions across five focus areas: Innovation, Capital, Courage, Incentives, and Regulation. It focused on how current challenges can become innovation opportunities for Denmark to maintain its position at the forefront of sustainable fashion discourse.
Is Sustainability Too Ambitious for Danish Fashion Brands?
This is the current million-kroner question. Having worked in fashion, I can confirm that achieving end-to-end sustainability is very difficult. But it isn’t impossible. There are many challenges along the way, and some brands are doing an excellent job of keeping their supply chain as impactful as possible. They make it look like sustainability can be integrated seamlessly.
While the whole of Europe is taking painful efforts to move its production toward more and more green practices, as well as keeping production within the EU where possible, there are aspects of it that continue to be roadblocks. In the same vein, some non-EU nations simply produce excellent quality materials that Europe is very proud to include as part of their offering.
Let’s face it, we are all about high quality.
For Danish brands, because the stress on transparency is so big, it becomes even more crucial for brands to openly share about their sustainability journey and challenges.
This approach to sustainability and adoption of circular design principles is keeping consumer interest in the Danish fashion industry. Consumers are growing conscious as time passes. It is ‘cool’ to thrift shop and use more sustainable brands, even if one has to shell out a few extra kroner.
Finally, you do you boo!
Like every fashion girlie or dude, you do you! If thrifting rocks your boat, then go for it! Fashion in Denmark, no matter what, is setting a standard, and the world is following.
While there are pitfalls and some bigger brands that continue without a concern for sustainability, your fashion choices and consciousness of the environment will steadily change the course of the industry. Once again, collective action and purchasing power can shift the direction of a whole industry.
We shall not create a Monster!
