Jeg tog to tog til Middelfart

The Danish Railroad Company DSB (Danske Statsbaner) is the largest train operating company in Scandinavia, transporting more than 195 million passengers each year. This year marks 140 years since the founding of DSB in 1885. To honor this occasion, Last Week in Denmark will be publishing a monthly column called “Jeg Tog To Tog” (“I took two trains”). Each episode will highlight the basic history, quirky charm, and hidden treasures of some of Denmark’s small towns, which can be reached by traveling with DSB. 

I must give credit to my five-year-old son, whose passionate interest in trains has inspired my family to explore Denmark via its phenomenal railway system. At the age of three, he would implore us to take him on “two buses and a train.” We would then take a bus to Vejle, and literally get on the first train that arrived. He would gaze out the window with wonder and delight, until he stated his decision that we should “get off here.” As a result of these spontaneous adventures, my family has visited more Danish towns in our five years of living here than most of my native friends claim in their lifetime. I am here to share some of our discoveries, in hopes that you, too, may be inspired to explore Denmark via its phenomenal railway system.

The criteria for towns highlighted in this column are as follows:

1. Must have a train station
2. Can be reached using a maximum of two trains 
3. Explorable by foot 
4. Contains memorable / unique attractions

First Stop:                   

Middelfart

Latitude: 55° 30′ 21.28″ N
Longitude: 9° 43′ 49.94″ E
Population: 16,528

For many native English speakers, hearing the name Middelfart may invoke a snicker, a giggle, or even a hearty guffaw. I’ll admit, I’ve used it for a cheap laugh when telling my American friends about the lovable language delights I have encountered in my five years as an expat. My Danish friends do not share the same childish amusement, because when they pronounce the name properly, it doesn’t sound like they are describing mediocre flatulence.

The name Middelfart comes from the old Danish word mæthel, meaning “middle,” and fahr, meaning “way.” Located on the western coast of Fyn, this quaint fishing town serves as a connector to Jylland, which has been accessible using the Little Belt Bridge since 1935. With more than 16,000 residents calling it home, Middelfart has a distinct charm that is worthy of a train visit. 

DSB trains stopping in Middelfart originate from Copenhagen (about two hours), Esbjerg (53 minutes), Odense (22 minutes), and Fredericia (7 minutes). The closest train station for me is in Vejle, so I had to take a short train to Fredericia and then transfer.

We discovered Middelfart on our way to Odense, home to Danmarks Jernbanemuseum, the most thoughtfully curated and designed train museum we have encountered so far (and trust me, my family has visited a lot of train museums – but that’s a story for another article!). At the time, Middelfart’s train station housed a delightful café called STATIONEN Kaffebar, which closed in early 2024, and was replaced by “Det Lokale Middelfart.” Det Lokale opened its doors on September 30th, and closed permanently on December 12th. Their website includes an open invitation for future partnerships and support with helping to run the café.

At the time of this publication, the Middelfart station shares its space with an eclectic pair of shops: a luxury lighting boutique, and a dilapidated convenience store called City Kiosk. 

The City Kiosk overcompensates for a lack of snack variety with one of the most extensive drink displays I have seen outside of the U.S. In addition to Danish staples like Aqua d’Or, Tuborg, Cocio and Rock Star, you can also choose from rare finds such as Hot Blood Ice Tea, Bomba Mojito energy drink, Calypso Ocean Blue Lemonade, and Maaza Banana fruit juice. They also offer six different flavors of Capri Sun and a wider than normal range of canned iced espresso. As a bonus, you can choose from five varieties each of Sun Joy and Red Bull, with both drinks available in limited edition bottled versions. You can also help yourself to a free cup of coffee, if and only if you enjoy it while playing the onsite gambling activities. 

Another surprising feature of the Middelfart City Kiosk is its elaborate collection of stationery supplies. You can find envelopes of any size, mixed together with balloons, table flags, greeting cards, and random home office supplies. It’s one stop shopping, if you ever need to host a massive mailing campaign party, and want to make sure none of your guests are thirsty.

After leaving the station and the City Kiosk, you only have to walk 300 meters to get to the Middelfart pedestrian street. Since this is the inaugural issue of “Jeg Tog To Tog,” I thought it might be helpful to create a checklist of classic Danish storefronts, which you, the reader, can bring with you whenever you need to make your own village assessment. Middelfart has all of the following:

• Normal
• Bog og Idé
• Kop & Kande
• H&M
• FriBike Shop
• Matas
• REMA 1000
• Intersport (or similar sporting goods store)
• Pizza place with at least 150 menu items
• Lagkagehuset

In all sincerity, Middelfart does have some hidden gems that deserve recognition. For example, you can find authentic, Mexican-influenced food at JaTaco. This hip and elegant restaurant opened in 2017, and offers flavorful tacos made with expert simplicity. If Copenhagen feels too far to travel just for authentic Mexican food, make the stop at JaTaco and your craving will be satisfied.

Another standout worth visiting is Lillebælt Boulcher, a humble sweet shop specializing in handmade hard candies, produced onsite using old-fashioned methods. The owner will treat you to free samples, and you can view the process through glass windows. You can even book an appointment to come and make your own candies or lollipops.

The CLAY Museum of Ceramic Art is fascinating and unique, although the fragile and delicate displays do not make for a relaxing visit if you are traveling with a small, curious child. In general, Middelfart visibly supports and celebrates artistry, which you will notice as you marvel at magnificent murals and sculptures throughout the town. 

Our highlight of the visit, however, was the impressive cultural center, KulturØen, which came to Middelfart in 2005. The venue is open from 7:00 until midnight, and houses a lively and vibrant library, a romantic restaurant with a panoramic view of the harbor, and even a cinema showing current releases. KulturØen – and Middelfart, as a town – embodies many of the values, spirit, and ethos that made us fall in love with Denmark when we first migrated here: dedication to family, arts, and culture; comfort and accessibility, and sophisticated architectural design.

Having been treated to the dejlig and hyggelig charm of Middelfart, I promise to never chuckle, titter, or chortle at its name, ever again. I recommend you visit, and please, take the train. In addition to being a pleasant experience in and of itself, train travel is also better for the environment, and you won’t have to worry about fartkontrol.

Next Stop: Herning, a vibrant hub for culture, cutting-edge design, and Danish charm, and host of Art Herning (January 31 – February 2).