The Danish Railroad Company DSB (Danske Statsbaner) is the largest train operating company in Scandinavia, transporting more than 195 million passengers each year. This year marks 140 years since the founding of DSB in 1885. To honor this occasion, Last Week in Denmark will be publishing a monthly column called “Jeg Tog To Tog” (“I took two trains”). Each episode will highlight the basic history, quirky charm, and hidden treasures of some of Denmark’s small towns, which can be reached by traveling with DSB.
I must give credit to my five-year-old son, whose passionate interest in trains has inspired my family to explore Denmark via its phenomenal railway system. At the age of three, he would implore us to take him on “two buses and a train.” We would then take a bus to Vejle, and literally get on the first train that arrived. He would gaze out the window with wonder and delight, until he stated his decision that we should “get off here.” As a result of these spontaneous adventures, my family has visited more Danish towns in our five years of living here than most of my native friends claim in their lifetime. I am here to share some of our discoveries, in hopes that you, too, may be inspired to explore Denmark via its phenomenal railway system.
The criteria for towns highlighted in this column are as follows:
- Must have a train station
- Can be reached using a maximum of two trains
- Explorable by foot
- Contains memorable / unique attractions
Second Stop: Herning
As I began initial preparations for this column, I used Visit Denmark as a resource to inform my year’s plan. This is how I learned about Art Herning, one of the biggest art fairs in Denmark. I wanted to attend the event last weekend, but I was invited to speak at a TEDx event in Odense, which is one of my family’s favorite cities, but doesn’t quite meet the column’s goal of introducing readers to lesser known towns. That being said, if you haven’t visited Odense: next week would be a perfect time to go, as they are offering many great programs for the Winter holidays. Next week would also be a perfect time to take a creative day trip to Herning, where you can celebrate Valentine’s Day with a visit to the HEART – Herning Museum of Contemporary Art.
HEART museum is the centerpiece of Birk Skulpturpark, a sprawling and majestic series of attractions located on the outskirts of Herning. It is worth a visit, especially on a sunny day with plenty of time to wander. You’ll have to take a short ride on the #5 bus from Herning station, which makes a few stops along the cultural trail.
Herning Station is clean and well-maintained, with a fully stocked Seven Eleven. Your family can indulge in side by side slush ice machines: Raspberry or Blue Fantasy for the kids, and Cocio or Cappuccino flavored slush ice for the grown-ups. The nuts and chips selection is on point at this location, and they are committed to extending the Christmas season with a cooler of leftover Tuborg Julebryg. On a scale from seven to eleven, I would give this convenience store a solid ten. If you visit soon, you can take advantage of their current Superdeal: four candy bars for only 55 kroner.
A mere 400 meters from the station, you will find one of the most charming and accommodating library centers in Denmark. Herning Bibliotek – like the sculpture park – is an extraordinary attraction. Highlights include a vibrant Makerspace (offering 3D printers, soldering irons, laser cutter, and animation studios), a cozy games room with communal tables, and a playful children’s section that can be accessed either by a Hogwarts-esque elevator, spiral staircase, or playground ladder slide. Trust me, you need to experience this library. The onsite cafeteria is uniquely elegant, with healthy options and exquisite decor.
Exiting through the rear of the library gives you direct access to the city’s pedestrian street. It is one of the longest pedestrian streets I have encountered in my Danish travels. You can get wonderfully lost wandering, and discover treasures at Antikvariat Obscurum, an expertly curated antique book store converted from an old printing factory.
There are plenty of great restaurants in Herning, including a topnotch sushi bar, Yutaka, and Dirty Ranch Steakhouse, which features a menu and logo seemingly inspired by the American chain LongHorn Steakhouse. There is even a Michelin star restaurant in Herning, if you are into that sort of thing.
My personal recommendation for food is Bandhan, with a dedicated and attentive staff serving outstanding authentic Indian cuisine.
All of your questions can be answered at the VisitHerning Tourist Information center, offering proud, friendly assistance until 3pm on weekdays. You can learn more about the history of the booming textile industry, which helped land Herning a place in the top twelve most populated cities in Denmark. You will probably end up wishing you had booked an entire weekend, because you had no idea how many activities this humble village has to offer.
At least start with an afternoon. It’s only a train ride away.
Next Stop: Horsens, the home of Northern Europe’s largest festival for Crime Fiction.
